Scarily Cute Halloween Pillow Covers

One  thing I have plenty of are throw pillows.  One thing I don’t have is a lot of storage space.  This predicament helped me decide to make Halloween themed pillow covers.  I chose covers for ease of storage and keeping the costs low.  These can easily be made into permanent pillows, which I will add  alternate instructions if you wish to go that route.  Unfortunately, I did not take step by step photos, but I will explain them the best I can. 

What you need: 

  • Pillows, pillow forms, or poly fill 
  • Fabric- the amount depends on your pillow sizes.  The colors depend on what designs you want to do.
  • Sewing machine
  • Scissors
  • Fabric pen/marker/chalk
  • Pins
  • Measuring tape.

1. The first thing I did was measure my pillows.  Most of them were 16×16″. I gave myself a half inch seam allowance (I always use 1/2″ because of the clear and large mark on my sewing machine, you make whatever seam allowance you want).

2. Cut out one piece of fabric the size of your pillow, adding in your seam allowance.  Example, I cut a 17×17 square. If you are making pillows instead of covers, cut two squares. Skip steps 3 and 4.

3. If you are making covers, Cut the backs of the pillows.  I like to have about a three inch over lap for pillow covers.  I cut a 17×9″ and a 17×13″ piece.  These pillow case instructions have step by step photos in my dog pillow tutorial found here:

4. On the short edge of the back fabric pieces, fold over one edge 1/2 inch, pin and sew.  This will be your finished edge on the back of the pillow cover.

5. This is where you get to be creative!  Cut out the shapes you want for your pillows.  This is were your fabric pen comes in handy!  I have examples of all the pillow lay outs I made.  All of the pillows with the exception of the spider and mummy follow the same steps. 

6.  Depending on your design, begin sewing the detail parts.  The first thing I did was sew the pupils to the eyes. Then I laid out the designs and pinned the features to the front pillow pieces.  I free-hand sewed the features fabrics using matching thread. I used a simple straight stitch except for the spiders mouth, where I used a zig-zag stitch. *spider and mummy details at end of tutorial

7. I then added addition details using my embroidery machine.  If you don’t have one, don’t worry!  Using a very tight zig-zag stitch can achieve the same results.  For the cat, I used a satin embroidery stitch to create the whiskers.  For Frankenstein’s monster, I used the same stitch for his scar.  I used a normal straight stitch for his mouth.

8. Once all your details are complete place your front pillow piece and your two back pieces right side together.  I like the smaller back piece to be on top, but that is strictly preference.  Pin pieces together and sew the edges. If you are making a regular pillow, pin front and back squares right side together and sew the edges leaving a space to stuff the pillow or insert a form. 

9. Flip covers right side out, and place pillow inside.  If making a pillow, stuff the pillow and pin open section together once it is stuffed to your preferred softness, then stitch hole closed.

There is intermittent ironing needed through out the crafting, I used 100% cotton so just looking at the fabric made it wrinkle.  One thing I wish I had used was Fray Check.  I didn’t think about it until my dog was laying on one of the pillows and frayed the crap out of an eye ball.  I like the cover idea because they are easy to store and I can wash them.  

* Spider-  for the spider assembly I made 8 2×4 legs out of extra fabric.  I cut 4×4 squares, folded it in half and sewed the long edge and one short end.  I then flipped it right side out and pressed the piece flat.  When assembling the spider I placed the front piece right side up, put the legs on top of the front piece.  I made the legs 3″ long so the finished ends went on the inside of the fabric and the unfinished ends stuck out around the pillow front.  I had four on each side.  I then placed my back pieces as described above and sewed the edges.  When flipped right side out the spider cover has 8 little legs poking out of the sides. It is hard to see in the picture below as it blends in with the chair pattern.

The mummy was a bit more involved.  I sewed the eye pieces together separately.  I then cut two inch thick strips of fabric and placed them randomly on the pillow front piece.  When I found a pattern I liked, I pinned the strips to the pillow front and sewed the strips down.  I then sewed on the eyes.  I knew I wanted the eyes partly covered so I added two more strips covering part of each eye.  I then continued the pillow cover as described above.  I did trim the excess fabric before turning the cover right side out.  Also, the strips could get tangled and easily twisted so I used many more pins with this pillow case than the others.  

I hope these pillows add a little Halloween cheer to your living room!

Thank you for reading!



Dog Definition Pillow

  Around Christmas I was strapped for money as I was buying a house.  So, I decided everyone was getting a DIY gift.  I found these adorable pillows crusing Pinterest one day…

I thought “I can make those!”  So I did.  

What you need:

  1. Fabric paint (I bought white, black, and blue)
  2. Paint brushes 
  3. Scissors
  4. Exacto knife
  5. Computer 
  6. Iron
  7. Iron off pen
  8. Sewing machine 
  9. Fabric
  10. Pillow inserts (optional)


  1. I purchased 16×16 pillow inserts.  I use inserts because I can’t for the life of me make a non-lumpy pillow.  Plus, pillow cases are easier to wash. So, I cut 17×17 pieces of white cotton fabric.
  2. I designed the silhouettes and the words on the computer.  My friend has two Brittany spaniel mixes so I searched for pictures of that breed then, after I printed the silhouettes, I modified them to match.      
  3. I cut out the silhouette and the letters.  This was the most tedious part.  
  4. Next, with my iron off pen (these are amazing!! You can write all over your fabric then heat makes it disappear) I traced the letters and dog on to my fabric.     
  5. Paint in the letters.  I made the pronounciation a lighter color by mixing the blue and white.   
  6. I let it dry then I ironed the fabric with a handkerchief over the paint and the steam setting off.  The iron heat removed the pen marks, set the paint, and actually puffed the paint up just a little.      
  7. I then created the back for the cases.  I ran out of white fabric so I used a light blue.  I cut two pieces of blue.  One about 14×17 inches the other about 7×17.  I hemmed one edge with a 1/4 inch seam then laid them out.  Right sides together I put the 14 inch down first then the 7 inch and pinned them. I sewed everything together with a 1/2 seam.     
  8. Insert the pillow forms and voila!    

I am really happy with how they came out.  My biggest complaint is that the black paint had some variations after I ironed everything.  I’m not sure if it was a mistake on my part or just how the paint sets.  It’s not horribly noticeable but something to keep in mind.  Thank you for reading!! 


    Floor pouf


    There have been so many poufs on pinterest lately I decided I would make my niece one for Christmas. It was a bit trickier than I thought initially but I learned a lot and it looks really cute!

    Materials Needed:

    -Pouf fabric- I believe I bought 2 yards of it. Confession time: I always buy more than I need because I am always convinced I’m going to screw up

    -Applique fabric, I made a flower so I bought 1/4 of a yard of the green and pink





    -sewing machine

    -pre-made piping (I bought two packs)



    1. I started out making my pattern. I used the old pen and string trick to make my circle which ended up being about 16 inches in diameter

    missys ipone 12-14-12 059(The brown paper didn’t work well, so I taped together copy paper and it worked a lot better)missys ipone 12-14-12 060

    2. Next I decided upon the height of the pouf. I made mine about 15 inches tall

    3. Math time! Find the circumference of your circle to know how long to cut the sides. 2πR=C or Dπ=C

    4. Cut out your fabric from the pattern. That equals out to be 2 circles the same size and one long piece of fabric the length of your circles circumference and the height you decided upon.

    5. Next I made a pattern for my applique. My base fabric was flowers so I settled upon a flower appliqué

    6. I cut out the fabric, I chose green for the center and pink for the petals.

    7. I arranged the appliqué on the top circle and then pinned it. I left the circle out because it was going to over lap the petals and some stitches.

    8. I used a wide zigzag stitch for my applique. I zigzagged all the petals. I found pulling pins as I sewed helped keep the petal flat.

    9. I pinned the flowers center to the appliqué and used the same wide zigzag around it.

    10. Next, I pinned the piping to the circles.

    11. I sewed the piping to both the top and bottom circle. I used a different foot so I could get really close to the edge of the piping. A zipper foot will work fine, but I didn’t have one. I have no idea what most of my presser feet are used for, so I grabbed one that looked like it would work. And it did.

    12. I then made little handle out of scrap fabric and sewed it to the middle of the side fabric.

    13. Next, I pinned the side to the bottom circle. If I was going to mess it up, I wanted it to be on the bottom. (pin right sides together)

    14. sew the circle, using the same piping presser foot as above. Work slowly and try to stay right next to the piping.

    15. Repeat 13 & 14 for the top circle.

    16. Your pouf should be in side out. Now pin and sew up the side. I pinned and sewed about 1/3 of the way up on each side leaving a hole in the middle.

    17. Turn it inside out.

    18. At first I just stuffed it but it was all lumpy and unattractive so I pulled out the stuffing and thought about a fix for days. I didn’t want to buy foam, the whole point of making a pouf was it was inexpensive. I didn’t want to wrap it all in batting, the batting would shift and make more problems. One day when I was in for a School Nurse, a class room was throwing out a big play mat. I asked if I could have it. I tore it open and cut two circles out of the foam.

    19. I placed the foam on the top and bottom to help keep shape and reduce the bulging look.

    20. I was going to fill it all up with circles of foam, but it would be too heavy for her to move around. So I resorted to lining the sides with batting and stuffing it from there.

    21. After I stuffed all I could stuff, I sewed the hole by hand.

    There it is! It’s still a bit lumpy but it looks so much better than before. Next time I would use thicker batting.


    Some tips:

    -Starch your fabric before you sew on the applique. It’ll help it hold better

    -give your self plenty of extra room for the side fabric.

    -If you think you want it to be 16 inches high, think more around 12. This pouf looks so big! Much bigger than I intended.

    -A stabilizer for the applique would be good. I had some threads pull loose when stuffing the first time. I went over the areas again and haven’t had problems since the foam was in, but if it’s going to get a lot of use I recommend using a fusible one.

    Thank you for reading!




    Poinsettia Tree Skirt

    missys ipone 12-14-12 239

    I needed a tree skirt. I have this pet peeve about trees without them. It was a week until Thanksgiving and I was getting down to the wire (I put up my tree the day after Thanksgiving because I love Christmas so much!) I digress, I went to Target one day and they had these red tree skirts for $5. Can’t go wrong with that so I bought one and went home. I opened it and it was a big felt mess. I decided to upcycle it into something great. And Voila! The Poinsettia Tree Skirt was born.

    What you need

    -2 Red felt tree skirts from target or and where else your heart desires

    -Green felt sheets. I bought 6 and used 5. I had about 38 flowers to make you may need more or less depending on the size of your tree skirt.

    -Jingle Bells

    -Needle and thread



    -extra paper

    1. I started by making a pattern. I made a few different flowers until I made one I was happy with. This pattern included 2 four point flowers layered on top of each other and two green leaves. Then I took that pattern and measured how many it would take to cover the skirt. My skirt was scalloped so I just counted the peaks and measured how many flowers it would take to cover a peak and a valley. It took three flowers, and ultimately It was around 30 some flowers. I rounded up and made extra to be sure. I believe I cut out 74 flowers all together.

    missys ipone 12-14-12 217

    2. I traced the pattern on the second tree skirt. I traced all of them before I cut them out.

    missys ipone 12-14-12 219

    3. I cut out (along with Mike) all the flowers

    4. Then I traced the leaves on the green felt and cut those out

    missys ipone 12-14-12 220

    5. now the fun part, Mike and I hand-sewed every flower. We layered the petals then adjusted the leaves so they were showing and put a gold jingle bell in the middle.

    missys ipone 12-14-12 221missys ipone 12-14-12 222

    missys ipone 12-14-12 223missys ipone 12-14-12 225

    6. after all the flowers were made (which took about 3 evenings sitting in bed watching movies) we attached all the flowers along the edge. I placed my flowers to get rid of the scallop. I wasn’t feeling it that day.

    missys ipone 12-14-12 236missys ipone 12-14-12 237

    7. And you’re done! The pictures don’t actually do it justice, the red kind of blends together but in real life it looks great.

    Tips and Tricks

    -Have a friend or your boyfriend/girlfriend help you cut everything out

    -Trim the top flower so the center is smaller. It looks better if the jingle bell covers most of it.

    -Double up your thread.

    -You will have floppy flowers. but they lay on the floor and until x-mas morning there isn’t a lot of stress to them.

    As always, thank you for reading!



    20 minute table runner

    With the holidays gearing up, I am trying to decorate my apartment on a budget. I found this table runner on display at a local sewing store and it was so simple to make, I created places to put runners. I made one for my table and one for my coffee bar.

    Materials needed;
    -1/3 yard of festive fabric
    -1/2 yard of complimentary fabric
    -scissors/cutting wheel
    -sewing machine

    1. Square up your fabric. Ultimately you want 12 inch width of patterned fabric and 18 inch width of complimentary fabric. As you can see below after I squared my fabric I lost about ¾ of an inch… I wasn’t happy. If anyone that works at a craft store reads this, ALWAYS give a few extra inches with fabric. Trust me, no one is cutting straight and after everything evens up that’s about what you lose.

    (Look at all that! Arrgghh!)

    2. After you have the correct width of fabric, place right sides together and pin the length of the fabric.

    3. Sew ¼ 0r ½ inch seam, whatever floats your boat.

    4. Pin the other sides of the fabric together and sew the same width seam as in step 2 and 3.

    5. Press seams out away from patterned fabric.

    6. You should have a big long tube, flip tube right side out.

    7. Press creases into the complimentary fabric so it evenly borders the patterned fabric on each side. I found folding the patterned fabric in half then folding the complimentary fabric over it helped me get pretty even borders.

    8. Fold tube in half the hot dog bun way with the patterned fabric is facing out. Line up the short end and pin. Sew 1/4 inch seam.

    9. Snip ends of seam and flip inside out creating a point.

    10. Center the seam and press fabric to keep in place. You can also sew a button or pom pom on to help keep the seams centered.

    And that’s it!

    This is on my coffee Bar

    This is on my dining table, I just loved the leaf print (even though it doesn’t match anything!)


    -Buy a little extra fabric so you can square it up.

    -If you want it to be wider, adjust the widths of the fabric. However, make sure you adjust for the size of the border.

    -If you want it to be longer buy fabric that’s 60 inches long instead of 42. Or you can buy the 2 yards (or what whatever length you need). then cut the fabric to the length and width but that takes more time.

    -Make sure your ends are even when you sew the short ends, other wise your triangle will be a little off.

    I hope you like it, and as always, thank you for stopping by!



    Chalkboard Placemats


    This was such a fun craft to make and it didn’t take too long! I was inspired with this through pinterest. I saw a pin of a bag with the menu on it and held the utensils. I thought it was a cute idea but it was only a one time use. So, I thought why not make a place mat with a chalk board. Then I saw this on pinterest,

    You could buy them on that site, but what fun it that!? My boyfriend and I were cooking dinner for some of our friends and we thought that would be the perfect time to unveil them!

    Materials Needed:

    Plastic place mats- I bought mine from the dollar tree for, what a surprise, a dollar. I made sure they were flexible and thin enough to stick a needle through easily.

    Fabric Place mats- Again I bought mine from dollar tree. I made sure they were about 1/2″ bigger than the plastic mats on all sides

    Sandpaper- I used a scrap piece that was, I believe, 280 grit

    Sewing Machine

    Seam Ripper (aka Jack)


    Paper clips

    Spray Adhesive

    Application sponge or paint brush


    Chalkboard paint or:

    non-sanded grout- Value Home center for about $12. I was price gouged on this because they were out of the cheap stuff, but I’m not too worried about it There are plenty of opportunities to use this.

    Paint- any type or color will work. I used dirt resistant flat interior paint. I wanted it to look like a chalk board so I had it mixed to a charcoal color. I saw this after I mixed the paint, but there are sample quarts you can buy for about $5. Next time I will try that. You only need a little bit so don’t buy a whole gallon unless you’re mass producing place mats.

    Container to mix pain in

    Stir stick

    Something to cover your work space. I used a drop cloth

    How to fashion a Chalkboard place mat

    1. The first thing I did was remove all the tags. This sounds like an obvious step but if you don’t do it and you sand over a label it will be a pain to get off.

    2. Sand the plastic place mats. You don’t need to evenly sand every bit, just rough it up so the paint will stick. Run your hand over the place mat after you’re done sanding and if you feel any smooth spots, hit that part again. I’m not sure this is entirely necessary but I wasn’t about to start painting and have it all peel off.

    3. Next, I mixed the paint. If you bought chalkboard paint skip this step, if not here’s what I did. 8oz of paint mixed with 2 tablespoons of grout. Mix it together well. It won’t look smooth, but it shouldn’t have big lumps in it either. Mine bubbled up and you can tell it has a lot of texture. I made one cup at a time. I didn’t even use a full two cups so don’t waste your paint! Make it as you go.

    (8oz = 1 cup)

    2 Tablespoons of grout

    4. Paint a thin layer of the chalkboard paint onto the sanded side of your plastic placemats. You may not completely cover the mat but that’s okay. you want to build up coats of the paint.

    5. While your first coat is drying, grab your seam ripper (I named mine Jack) and rip the seams on the cloth place mats. Now, I wasn’t thinking when I bought my mats and purchased 7 of each. As it should turn out, when you rip out the seams of the cloth place mats you get two sides! Mind-boggling right? So if you are doing say 6 mats, just buy 3 cloth mats.

    6. Remove all the extra threads from the cloth mats. An easy way to do this is make a packing tape donut, slip it on your hand and let the tape pull out the threads!

    Mike joined in on the thread removal.

    7. Iron the cloth flat. I was lucky and my place mats had a stabilizer on the inside so I ironed both sides to keep the stabilizer fused. Remove all creases as best you can. When you go to sew you may move the seams around from where they originally were and you don’t want a big crease to throw you off.

    8. With the fabric all ready, it’s just time to paint the plastic mats with coats and coats of paint. Mike and I painted 3 coats, then let them dry over night. The next day we did 3 more.

    9. If you have perfectly shaped plastic mats, you can do this while you are waiting for the paint to dry. However, if your mats are from the dollar tree like mine and come in all kinds of sizes, wait until your paint is dry. Cut the cloth place mat 1″ larger than the plastic mat on each side. This will allow for a 1/2″ seam and 1/2″ to fold over on to the mat. I lined my mats up matching at the corner and cut 2″ extra on two sides. I originally wanted 1/4″ seams but it was just a bit too small to work with.

    Two cuts instead of four! 1″ all around

    1/4″ seam vs. 1/2″ seam. you can see why I chose 1/2″

    10. Pin and sew your 1/2″ seam on all four sides of the cloth place mat and iron. Double check the size of the plastic mat to make sure it will fit.

    Mike was nice enough to help me with the pinning.

    11. Spray a light coat of spray adhesive on the back of the plastic mat. Center the plastic mat onto the cloth mat and press.

    12. Flip the mat cloth side up and smooth out the wrinkles. You can lift and readjust the mats. The spray adhesive allows a lot of movement so don’t worry if you’re off center a bit. Just pull it off and try again!

    Wrinkles! Smooth ’em out!

    13. Fold over excess 1/2″ of the cloth place mat on to the chalkboard mat. I didn’t want to use pins because that would make my chalkboard holey, so I used paper clips and pulled them as I sewed.

    Smaller clips seemed to work better

    14. Sew Place mats together. This will take patience as its a lot of layers to go through. I found a new needle and going slowly made a big difference. I moved my needle all the way to the left. Then I lined up the inside edge of the fold along the left edge of my presser foot. I had a few bobbin and tension issues with one mat but I just ripped some seams and sewed them again. There were no issues with any of the other mats. When I came to the corners I clipped and folded them to lie flat. My cloth fabric frayed a little so I went back and threw a few hand stitches on to keep it in check.

    15. Press the back and edges of place mat

    14. Try out the chalkboard! It should work great and wipe off with a damp cloth. I found a towel works best.

    I was really excited about this and they came out great! It took a few nights to complete this project, and I even had some help! It’s a simple process, however. I love these for entertaining and maybe in years to come I’ll pack them to restaurants to occupy my future kids!

    Some things to keep in mind…

    -I tested the chalkboard after 3 coats and it worked really well. Mike tested its durability and pressed really hard on the chalk and scratched off the paint. We decided to do more coats just in case. If you aren’t the Hulk 3-4 coats will work just fine.
    – When pinning the seams I found it easier to place the pins parallel to the seam then after it was to the right size I flipped the pins perpendicular.
    – I was lucky with my cloth fabric. If you have some extra stabilizer lying around you may want to add some for more durability.
    – clean your sponge or brush after each application, even if you are doing another coat in an hour. The sponge will get hard and the grout will chunk up and it can scratch the paint or leave lines.

    – if the paint were to scratch or rub off, touch ups are very easy. This paint doesn’t really streak like on the walls. When Mike scratched our test mat it was very easy to cover and I had to look pretty hard to see where we touched up. Just be careful near the fabric if you need to add some paint eventually.

    – The paint dries pretty quickly but I would give it a full day before you write on it just to be safe.

    – all in all each place mat probably cost about $5 each. The paint was the most expensive thing but that’s because I didn’t shop around and the store was out of the cheap stuff. Compared to $16 each this is way better! Plus you can buy any fabric to match your decor.

    Happy drawing and dining! Thank you again for stopping by!



    Office Banner


    This was done pre-blog times, so again no step by step pictures. However, this was very quick and easy and I made it in about 15 minutes!

    Materials Needed
    Iron on Transfer paper- you can buy this at any craft store, I had some already so it was free for me! When you go to buy this, look for the paper that is made for your fabric. They have light fabric and dark fabric options.

    Two patterns of fabric- I used muslin and an extra fat quarter I had laying around

    Sewing machine

    Dowel rod (I used an unsharpened pencil)


    Computer and printer


    And so it begins…
    1. Find a quote or picture that you like. I stumbled across mine in a store. It’s by Mother Theresa and I felt it was very appropriate for what was going on around me at the time.
    2. Format your quote or picture in a printable form. Play with fonts and sizes until you get something you really like.
    3. Print your quote as a mirror image! This is really important or else you’ll iron on a quote that’s backwards. I used best quality to make sure it transferred nicely.
    4. Iron image onto the middle fabric (Muslin) Read the directions on your package as each requires different heat. My iron was on cotton, no steam, and I pressed down firmly for about 15-20 seconds. It was a bit long as some residue stayed on my muslin.
    5. You can cut your muslin before or after. I’m terrible at centering things so I always try to mistake proof my projects. I cut out my muslin centering the quote. I allowed 1/4″ for the seam on the top and bottom.
    6. Next I cut the top and bottom pieces of fabric. I gave an extra 1/4″ for a seam on the bottom and 1 1/4″ on the top. 1/4″ for the seam 1″ for the rod.
    7. I pinned the muslin and bottom piece right sides together, lining up the top of the blue and the bottom of the muslin.
    8. Sew with 1/4″ seam and unpin.
    9. Pin the muslin and top piece right sides together then sew.
    10. For the flap for the dowel I folded the top over so the wrong side of the fabric touched. I pinned it and sewed straight across creating a loop a bit smaller than 1/2″.
    11. Iron banner pressing the seams in to lay flat.


    12. If you use a dowel rod you have a few options! You can cut the rod to fit inside the banner or you can have it hang outside of the loop. If you leave excess you can buy decorative knobs for the ends if you want to make it fancier. I could only find 2″ dowel rods at home so I used an unsharpened pencil. Insert rod (or pencil) in loop.
    13. Feed ribbon through the loop or tie ribbon on ends of rod. I fed mine through so a knot wouldn’t bulge out. Then I tied a bow at the top an adjusted the ribbon so it was even.
    14. Hang it up!

    I chose to leave the edges unfinished because I liked it but if you want a cleaner look, create a small seam around the whole banner before you fold the top for the loop.

    This one was easy, but it really made a difference in my office! Thanks again!