Boo!

Just in time for Halloween I’m presenting a quick but adorable costume for little girls. My niece adds to the cuteness, but it takes an evening to make, it’s cheap, and it can be adapted for weather. Those of us living in an area where it snows every Halloween can appreciate that! I found it on pinterest and when I followed the link (http://www.etsy.com/listing/96087036/custom-order-for-theresa) of course it was on Etsy to buy with no instructions, so I figured it out for myself.

Here’s what you need:
-Blank white t-shirt or onesie. You can find toddler sized blank shirts at Hobby Lobby for a couple bucks. I bought and 12 month and an 18 month because I was unsure exactly what my niece wore. (She’s in 12-18 so that doesn’t help)
– Fabric paint. I kept my design simple black and white but you could use colors if you wanted.

– Tulle. I used a roll of it from Hobby Lobby. It was an 8 inch roll which meant less cuts I had to make

-Ribbon, black and white. I used a shear white ribbon because I put it through out the skirt

-Elastic. I used a thicker piece for comfort, I believe inch thick is what I purchased

-Hair clip. I bought this from hobby lobby for a few dollars. It came in a pack of 6. They had a few different options and I went for a smooth clip so it didn’t pull out my niece’s hair.

-Hot glue gun

-Sewing machine

-Computer

-Paint brush

-Pen

-Scissors

-Google Eyes

And here we go:

1. I started with the shirt because I knew it would need to dry. I went on my computer and created a design. I used word because I knew I would use very simple shapes.

2. In word I used the shapes loaded in the program. I made an oval for the eyes then two crescents for the eye lashes. I wanted to make the ghost face more cute and girly. Then I grouped the pictures and copied it, pasted it and flipped it horizontally to create a mirror image.

3. Next, I did the mouth. One large crescent for the mouth and two little ones for the dimples. I centered all of shaped and grouped them then adjusted the size.

4. I measured the shirts and printed out a face to fit each shirt.

5. I put the shirt around a book to keep it flat and straight. (my old NCLEX book was but to good use!)

6. I cut out the face and centered it on the shirt then traced the face with a pen. I ended up using the 18 month shirt because I made it two months early and she is growing like a weed!

7. Next, I used the fabric paint and squirted some on the shirt then used the paint brush to spread it. I bought regular but in the future I think I would use matte paint. Once the face was all painted, I move on to the skirt.

8. For the skirt I did a few different experiments but I ended up sewing it. My niece’s waist is about 19 in around. I wanted a one inch lay over so I cut the elastic to 20 inches. I pinned the elastic and sewed it to make the waist band

9. Then I cut tulle strips about 20 inches long. I made them longer then planned to trim them as needed.

10. I tried the no sew method and looped the strips around the elastic and honestly I thought it looked terrible. Maybe with thinner elastic it would look better, but I was not a fan. I played around a little more and found that folding the tulle in half over the elastic and then sewing right below the band looked the best. I did two strips at a time and sewed them together. Then the next two strips I would over lap slightly on the last two. Be careful here, you can make a really full skirt. When I started it was very full and I evened it out as I went. Don’t sew the tulle to the elastic so it can stretch freely.

11. After the tulle was around the entire skirt I randomly placed lengths of ribbon in the skirt. I folded it in half over the skirt like the tulle to give a little shimmer from the inside and out.

12. Next I made little bows from the black ribbon and placed them around the band of the skirt. Mike helped me with the bows because he is such a good sport about this blog. I placed the bows over the white ribbon I added to the skirt to hide some of the stitching.

13. Next a made a small bow out of both ribbons to sew on the shirt. I placed the bow once the shirt was dry.

14. Then I made a bigger bow out of both ribbons for the hair clip

15. I hot glued the bow to the hair clip and made sure it was secure.

16. Then my niece tried on the skirt and it was trimmed.

Put her in some black leggings and… Volia! A cute and quick Halloween Costume for your little girl!

No tips for this one, it’s straightforward and easy. Just be careful on the skirt you can make it as poofy as you want but on little girls too much poof isn’t always a good thing. I skipped the google eyes because I thought it looked cuter with out them, but you can add them easily.

Thanks everyone!

L&L,

Missy

Anchors Aweigh!

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I made this a bit ago, but it was a gift for my friend for her birthday so I couldn’t post it until after she received it. I saw a similar design on Pinterest, but I decided to change it a bit and make it my own.

Materials needed:
-cord, I used a black leather cord from hobby lobby for $2
-Anchors charms, I ordered mine from etsy
-lobster claw
-two links
-four cinch close ends, I found these at Hobby Lobby for $2
-jewelry pliers. I used all four pictured, the needle nose, round nose, wire cutters, and regular flat pliers.
– measuring tape

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Aweigh!
1. Measure your wrist. Seeing as I made mine for my friend, I made it about the size of my wrist with a little extra room. I have about a 6 inch wrist so I wanted my final bracelet to be about 6 3/4 inches.

2. Cut two pieces of cord the size of your wrist, I added a little extra for fool proofing purposes.

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3. I distressed the leather cords a bit by squeezing it with the pliers and twisting it a few times. I wanted the leather to lay correctly and right out of the package it is too stiff. Your cord may not need this.

4. You may be able to buy ends that you can cinch closed without rings on the end but I didn’t search that hard. Instead I bought the ends with loops and cut the loops off of two of them with the wire cutters.

5. I sanded smooth the edges that felt rough or sharp. At this point there should be two ends with loops and two without.

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6. Fold the cord in half and wrapped it around the anchor shank and under the arms.

7. Pull both ends of the cord tight and keep them ends together.

8. Place one of the ends without a loop on the cord a few millimeters away from the crown of the anchor. Make sure both cords fit into the end and squeeze the end closed around the cords. You may and to squeeze the end a few different ways to make sure it closes properly and doesn’t sit funny.

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9. The loop created should allow some movement but the anchor should not be able to slip out of it.

10. Now fold the other cord in half and slip it through the loop.

11. Pull the cord ends tight and place the metal end without a loop on. Again there should be a little play.

12. Cinch the end closed, but do this a little differently. Above you wanted the cords to lay side by side, but if you do that with the top of the anchor, it won’t lay correctly. Cinch the end closed with the top cord up and the bottom cord under it. This will be a little harder to close (depending on the size of your cord and ends).

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13. Lay the bracelet aside and work on the connectors. Open a connecting ring enough to slip on an end with a loop and a lobster claw. I open my rings by slipping it on the round nosed pliers and pressing it down. This keeps the ring round and reduces the chance it becomes misshapen when closed.

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14. Open the second connector ring and slip on the last end with a loop.

15. Connect the claw and the loop and measure the end of the loop to the end of the loop.

16. For me everything together a a half inch. I measured the bracelet ends and trimmed them to the correct length. This is how I worked this in my head. I wanted my bracelet to be about 6 1/2 inches with a little room, so my bracelet cords would be 6 1/4 inches each and the space for the anchor would be the amount of play. So, if my connectors were 1/2 inch in length, I would want to cut 1/4 inch of the length of each side so I made each length of cord 6 inches. Make sense? Maybe?

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17. Once the cords are cut to the right length, place then metal end on the ends of the cords and cinch them closed. Try to keep the ends hidden in the end and not hanging out, they will be hard to clip once the end is closed.

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18. Try it on! If its too big, clip one of the ends and make a new end and redo it. If it’s too small, give it to some one and start over!

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I have decided to give away a bracelet and matching earrings. No big deal just tell me you want one. Your name will be entered an then if you refer a friend their name and yours will be added. So every friend you refer you get another chance and your friend gets a chance too. You can comment here or on my Facebook page. This will be open until January 7th when I’ll draw the name. As always thank you for stopping by!
L&L,
Missy

This is what you’ll win!

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Mirrored Wall

I have been out for a while due to moving  and a lot of family stuff.  But! My move has given me opportunity to do a lot of crafts which I will add as the time allows. Today, I want to talk about my mirrored wall.  I don’t have step by step pictures due to placing these mirrors required me sitting on a ledge over a staircase.  I decided to focus on getting the project done than risk tumbling down the stairs and laying there until someone found me. I digress, I needed pizazz along my blue wall. I wanted my living room/dining room to be gray with navy blue accents. Even though home designers say accent walls are “out”. I could care less and painted the wall above my stair well navy blue. I needed something to brighten the wall but not cover the blue. Years ago I went to Ikea and bought some 12×12 mirrors. I bought 3 packs of 4 for a different use, but back at that time I went in a different direction. The packs were only about $5 each so this whole project will cost you $15.

Here is what you need
– a wall
– for my design 3 packs of 12×12 mirrors
– a tape measure
– a level (use with caution)
– a writing implement

1. First, I decided on a pattern.  I laid the mirrors out on the floor and arranged them until I found my desired pattern.  Initially I liked the mirrors turned to a diamond shape and four across three down.

Note: mine changed part way through and I’ll explain why later
2. I measured the patterns length and width to determine the center.
3. I measured my wall and determined the center.
4. I marked the center of my wall with chalk, I knew I wouldn’t see pen on my dark wall.  Whatever you use, make sure it’ll come off the wall.
5. From there I used my tape measure and level to mark each of corners of the mirrors.
6. Then I placed the center mirrors on the wall. The way Ikea has their mirrors stick to the wall is with these four double sided sticky foam pads.
7. I placed the mirror on the wall before removing the paper from the pads to make sure everything lined up.  I worked from the center out.
8. When I got to the top mirror farthest to the right I lined the mirror up and it fit, but when I put the pads on, it lifted the mirror away from the wall just enough to hit a low spot of the textured ceiling. So, when I went to place the mirror and adhere it to the wall the corner chipped, creating a crack. Here’s where you need to be careful… This mirror is refusing to come off my wall at the moment.  These suckers stick once you place them so make sure you want them there. I will replaced it when I get back to Ikea and have the energy to pry it off my wall.

9. When I tried to put the last mirror on I the top row I made a horrible discovery that the wall in my 100 year old apartment is not square. Crazy huh? So I changed my design and made a step pattern instead and I just threw it on the bottom row. In retrospect I’m lucky it looks purposeful because, at the time I was pretty pissed about my broken mirror that refused to lift and my trapezoid of a wall.
10. After all the mirrors were hung, I cleaned them about 4 times each. I really have become fond of Invisible Glass. It cleans very well and leaves the glass streak free. These mirrors were pretty dirty and it did a nice job.
11. And you’re done! In my picture you can see vases and candles, I put the five vases in front of each mirror and a flameless candle in between each vase. Once Hobby Lobby puts all their floral on sale I’ll be filling the vases!

Just as an FYI: the blue vases are from Ikea ($5 each) and the candles were bought from HomeWoot.

I’m really happy with how this turned out, despite the broken one.  It did exactly what I needed it to do.  My apartment has very small windows and the mirrors reflect the little light they let in, and it looks great with the glow of the candles at night.  It also flows into the living room.  It points you in the right direction!

Thanks for stopping by again, I’m glad to be back!

 

L&L,

Missy

Refinishing a dinner table

I just rented a new apartment (yay) and I needed a dinner table. I found this beautiful oak table and four chairs on Craig’s list for $100. The table is in great condition but it had some wear on the top. I had all the things to finish it so Mike and I took a Sunday and made it refinish the table day.

Materials needed.
Table
Sander
Sandpaper
Polyurethane
Foam brush
Damp cloth
Saw horses (or table legs I took mine off)
Extension cord (you may not need this)

Let the games begin:

1. the very first thing I did was remove the legs from the table.  I didn’t want to sand the table and loosen or damage any of the legs so, I popped them off and set the table top on two sawhorses (outside because there was going to be a lot of dust!)

2.  We started off with 180 grit sandpaper, and sanded the top of the table.  We just wanted to take off the old polyurethane, and a thin layer of the wood, but not too deep.  Below is the edge of the table and we didn’t want to have to re-router the edge.

   

3. Next we moved to 220 girt sandpaper, put it on the power sander, and sanded the top again.  As we sanded (Mike and I switched off) we ran our hands over the table feeling for high spots then smoothed them out.  With the 220 we sanded the top and edges of the table.

 

4. then we went through and hand sanded the entire table with the 220.  At this point almost all of the scratches were out.  a few were very very deep, and again due to the edge we couldn’t sand them out without creating a whole lot of work for our selves.

 

5.  We wiped down the table and edges with a damp cloth.  If we were staining the table we could have dusted it off, but because we only were using polyurethane, we wanted all the dust off.

6.  Let the table dry before you start!  While it dried we moved the table inside so debris from the outside would fall and stick on the table.

7. when the wood was dry we took a foam brush and began to poly the table.  We started on a corner and used long strokes down the long end of the table.  We completed  a strip down the long edge before we started at the top again.  One technique we used was keeping a wet edge.  this simply means the the strip of poly we did next to the strip we were working on was still wet.  This helped the poly blend nicely and not be streaky.

 

8.  We let that dry over night

9.  The next day the pores of the wood soaked up a ton of the polyurethane and made the table feel very bumpy.  This is okay because the table needed sanded again any ways, so we used 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and sanded the top, careful not to take the entire coat off.

10.  Wipe down the table, a dry cloth is fine this time as there is a lot less dust.

11.  Repeat steps 7-10 several times.  I would say 3-5 coats for a table that will not get a ton of use and 5-7 for a kitchen table such as mine.  Each time we sanded we used the 400 grit until the last 3 coats.  then we switch to 800 and the very last coat was 800 wet. (wet/dry sandpaper used wet makes the grit finer and makes for a smoother feel)

12. for the last coat we did not use a foam brush.  Mike made me a sponge/rag to wipe the coat on.  He folded an old thick sock he no longer wore and wrapped that in an old t-shirt.  He made it square-ish and used a side with no creases for the remaining coat.

13.  Let it dry and you’re done!  (once you put the legs back on that is)

The only issue we ran into was the polyurethane didn’t seal properly one night and we had to buy a new can.  We worked with satin at first then accidentally bought a semi gloss then had to go back out and buy a satin again.  Minor issue but it was irritating.  This in total probably took a week.  We dragged it out over about 3 weeks because my apartment needed painted and new carpets.

Here in the light you can see how even it came out.  There are a few imperfections but overall it came out great.  Unless you are looking for them you can’t tell.

This is just an example of a scratch that was so deep it wouldn’t come up unless we routered the edge again.  This is the only one that is obvious, but it’s covered most of the time anyway.

I really had a lot of fun doing this, so did Mike.  We tried to split everything evenly because it was pretty cool to see it from the start until now (first picture).  The table was a great deal and I don’t have to worry about coasters or sweating glasses because of all the layers we put on.  Thanks for reading!

L&L,

Missy

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“Om” bracelet

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I don’t wear jewelry too often, mostly because I find it to be expensive. Also, I do not possess the talent of accessorizing myself very well. Despite my lack of style, I have wanted to try my hand at making my own jewelry for a while and I think this was a good starting point!

Materials needed:

A charm- I chose the “Om” symbol because I love yoga and the word’s meaning. It’s a healing word and we could all use a little more health!

A chain- I bought a 30″ necklace for my bracelet. I wanted plenty of chain in case I screwed up.

Small lobster claw- my charm is very small and I wanted the charm to be the center. My necklace came with a large clasp so I bought a small one and kept the large one for later use.

Jewelry pliers- I used round tip pliers, needle nose, and chain pliers.

Extra connecter rings- I bent 2 of these so extras are a good thing.

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1. I removed the link that came on the charm.

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2. Next, I clipped a link in the necklace chain to create 2 halves. I knew I wanted my bracelet to have two chains connected and that I wanted it all attached to the symbol itself. Ideally, I wanted the bracelet to be all one chain that slipped through the “o” of the charm and clipped on the ring attached to it. The chain however was too thick, so I adapted what I had. If you have a solid charm with only the attached ring, you’ll have to use a different method or adjust how you want your bracelet to look.

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(cutting the necklace in two)

3. I attached the two separate chains to one connector ring.

4. Then I attached the connector ring with the chains on it to the “o” part of the charm.

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5. Then, I measured the chains to the length I wanted. I like bracelets that move a little so I made my chains about 6″ long. I made it easy by putting the chains around my wrist and cutting where it looked good.

6. I attached the ends of the two chains to a connector ring, then connected the small lobster claw. I closed the connector rings with the needle nose pliers, then slipped the ring on the round tip pliers. I was able to make sure all the ends were curved and that the connectors somewhat resembled something that may have been round at one time in the past 🙂

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7. Now, just put it on and check out your handy work. This would be when you can see if any wire ends are sticking out or if the chain is too long, etc.

Things to keep in mind:

1. My materials were all very small. Be careful you don’t lose parts and that everything is big enough to work with. You can see below I used a penny for scale.

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2. Make sure you have the right sizes for your materials. My original connector rings were too thick for the chain to attach to. This turned Mikes ice cream trip into an ice cream/jewelry parts trip to Wal Mart.

3. The steps are easy, but take your time and be patient. Small parts can be frustrating but don’t give up!

4. Know what you want. I have wanted an anchor and Om bracelet for awhile and I waited and looked everywhere for what I want. I’ve yet to find the anchor charm I want.

I’m happy with how this turned out. A I said I’ve wanted one for a while and it’s pretty much how I pictured it except for a few things.
Thanks for stopping by!
L&L
Missy

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Chalkboard Placemats

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This was such a fun craft to make and it didn’t take too long! I was inspired with this through pinterest. I saw a pin of a bag with the menu on it and held the utensils. I thought it was a cute idea but it was only a one time use. So, I thought why not make a place mat with a chalk board. Then I saw this on pinterest,

http://milkbottles.com.au/products/Chalk_Board_Place_mats-447-0.html

You could buy them on that site, but what fun it that!? My boyfriend and I were cooking dinner for some of our friends and we thought that would be the perfect time to unveil them!

Materials Needed:

Plastic place mats- I bought mine from the dollar tree for, what a surprise, a dollar. I made sure they were flexible and thin enough to stick a needle through easily.

Fabric Place mats- Again I bought mine from dollar tree. I made sure they were about 1/2″ bigger than the plastic mats on all sides

Sandpaper- I used a scrap piece that was, I believe, 280 grit

Sewing Machine

Seam Ripper (aka Jack)

Pins

Paper clips

Spray Adhesive

Application sponge or paint brush

Iron

Chalkboard paint or:

non-sanded grout- Value Home center for about $12. I was price gouged on this because they were out of the cheap stuff, but I’m not too worried about it There are plenty of opportunities to use this.

Paint- any type or color will work. I used dirt resistant flat interior paint. I wanted it to look like a chalk board so I had it mixed to a charcoal color. I saw this after I mixed the paint, but there are sample quarts you can buy for about $5. Next time I will try that. You only need a little bit so don’t buy a whole gallon unless you’re mass producing place mats.

Container to mix pain in

Stir stick

Something to cover your work space. I used a drop cloth

How to fashion a Chalkboard place mat

1. The first thing I did was remove all the tags. This sounds like an obvious step but if you don’t do it and you sand over a label it will be a pain to get off.

2. Sand the plastic place mats. You don’t need to evenly sand every bit, just rough it up so the paint will stick. Run your hand over the place mat after you’re done sanding and if you feel any smooth spots, hit that part again. I’m not sure this is entirely necessary but I wasn’t about to start painting and have it all peel off.

3. Next, I mixed the paint. If you bought chalkboard paint skip this step, if not here’s what I did. 8oz of paint mixed with 2 tablespoons of grout. Mix it together well. It won’t look smooth, but it shouldn’t have big lumps in it either. Mine bubbled up and you can tell it has a lot of texture. I made one cup at a time. I didn’t even use a full two cups so don’t waste your paint! Make it as you go.

(8oz = 1 cup)

2 Tablespoons of grout

4. Paint a thin layer of the chalkboard paint onto the sanded side of your plastic placemats. You may not completely cover the mat but that’s okay. you want to build up coats of the paint.

5. While your first coat is drying, grab your seam ripper (I named mine Jack) and rip the seams on the cloth place mats. Now, I wasn’t thinking when I bought my mats and purchased 7 of each. As it should turn out, when you rip out the seams of the cloth place mats you get two sides! Mind-boggling right? So if you are doing say 6 mats, just buy 3 cloth mats.

6. Remove all the extra threads from the cloth mats. An easy way to do this is make a packing tape donut, slip it on your hand and let the tape pull out the threads!

Mike joined in on the thread removal.

7. Iron the cloth flat. I was lucky and my place mats had a stabilizer on the inside so I ironed both sides to keep the stabilizer fused. Remove all creases as best you can. When you go to sew you may move the seams around from where they originally were and you don’t want a big crease to throw you off.

8. With the fabric all ready, it’s just time to paint the plastic mats with coats and coats of paint. Mike and I painted 3 coats, then let them dry over night. The next day we did 3 more.

9. If you have perfectly shaped plastic mats, you can do this while you are waiting for the paint to dry. However, if your mats are from the dollar tree like mine and come in all kinds of sizes, wait until your paint is dry. Cut the cloth place mat 1″ larger than the plastic mat on each side. This will allow for a 1/2″ seam and 1/2″ to fold over on to the mat. I lined my mats up matching at the corner and cut 2″ extra on two sides. I originally wanted 1/4″ seams but it was just a bit too small to work with.

Two cuts instead of four! 1″ all around

1/4″ seam vs. 1/2″ seam. you can see why I chose 1/2″

10. Pin and sew your 1/2″ seam on all four sides of the cloth place mat and iron. Double check the size of the plastic mat to make sure it will fit.

Mike was nice enough to help me with the pinning.

11. Spray a light coat of spray adhesive on the back of the plastic mat. Center the plastic mat onto the cloth mat and press.

12. Flip the mat cloth side up and smooth out the wrinkles. You can lift and readjust the mats. The spray adhesive allows a lot of movement so don’t worry if you’re off center a bit. Just pull it off and try again!

Wrinkles! Smooth ’em out!

13. Fold over excess 1/2″ of the cloth place mat on to the chalkboard mat. I didn’t want to use pins because that would make my chalkboard holey, so I used paper clips and pulled them as I sewed.

Smaller clips seemed to work better

14. Sew Place mats together. This will take patience as its a lot of layers to go through. I found a new needle and going slowly made a big difference. I moved my needle all the way to the left. Then I lined up the inside edge of the fold along the left edge of my presser foot. I had a few bobbin and tension issues with one mat but I just ripped some seams and sewed them again. There were no issues with any of the other mats. When I came to the corners I clipped and folded them to lie flat. My cloth fabric frayed a little so I went back and threw a few hand stitches on to keep it in check.

15. Press the back and edges of place mat

14. Try out the chalkboard! It should work great and wipe off with a damp cloth. I found a towel works best.

I was really excited about this and they came out great! It took a few nights to complete this project, and I even had some help! It’s a simple process, however. I love these for entertaining and maybe in years to come I’ll pack them to restaurants to occupy my future kids!

Some things to keep in mind…

-I tested the chalkboard after 3 coats and it worked really well. Mike tested its durability and pressed really hard on the chalk and scratched off the paint. We decided to do more coats just in case. If you aren’t the Hulk 3-4 coats will work just fine.
– When pinning the seams I found it easier to place the pins parallel to the seam then after it was to the right size I flipped the pins perpendicular.
– I was lucky with my cloth fabric. If you have some extra stabilizer lying around you may want to add some for more durability.
– clean your sponge or brush after each application, even if you are doing another coat in an hour. The sponge will get hard and the grout will chunk up and it can scratch the paint or leave lines.

– if the paint were to scratch or rub off, touch ups are very easy. This paint doesn’t really streak like on the walls. When Mike scratched our test mat it was very easy to cover and I had to look pretty hard to see where we touched up. Just be careful near the fabric if you need to add some paint eventually.

– The paint dries pretty quickly but I would give it a full day before you write on it just to be safe.

– all in all each place mat probably cost about $5 each. The paint was the most expensive thing but that’s because I didn’t shop around and the store was out of the cheap stuff. Compared to $16 each this is way better! Plus you can buy any fabric to match your decor.

Happy drawing and dining! Thank you again for stopping by!

L&L
Missy

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Stairway to Heaven Lyrics Wall Art

I made this wall art for my boyfriend as a surprise. Lyrics wall art been around for a while but I was inspired to change up the fonts from Pinterest at this link:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/81835989/wedding-lyrics-wall-art?ref=sr_gallery_33&ga_ref=auto7&ga_search_query=wall+art&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_ship_to=US&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_facet=handmadewall+art.

This was done pre-blog so I don’t have all the pictures but I reproduced some of them because it was a bit difficult explaining what I had to do.

Materials needed:

Canvases- I bought a pack of nine 4 x 4 canvases from Michael’s they were about $20 but I had a 40% off coupon so I bought it for $12.

Fabric- I used muslin because I like the antique look at it gave. Plus it’s cheap and I had a bunch laying around.

Iron on transfer paper – I had this transfer paper already, but you can get this at hobby lobby or any craft store

Iron

Computer and printer

Staple gun

Steps for making the art

1. You want to find lyrics or quotes that you really like. My boyfriend’s favorite song lyric is in Stairway to Heaven and my favorite part of the song follows shortly. We are both big LZ fans as well so it all really worked out to find meaningful lyrics for him.

2. Format the lyrics into a printable form of the computer. This was a bit tricky. I knew I wanted the lyrics to go across the the canvases with out stopping. So instead of having 3 blocks of words, they would start and finish on different canvases.

My formatting only will work for 9 blocks that are 4″x4″.

I set my paper to legal size which is 8.5×14.

I set the orientation to land scape then set 1″ margins on the sides, 1″ on the top, and 3.5 on the bottom. This gave me a 12″x4″ area to type in.

I typed in from mikes favorite lyrics to the end of the song.

I decided on the fonts that I liked and changed all the words and lines that stood out to me to script. I knew I wanted 4 lines per row of blocks so I enlarged the font to have 4 lines on each page. The script was smaller at the same point size as the type so I enlarged all the scripted words until all the letters were about the same size.

Then I adjusted the line spacing to make sure it all fit in 4″. I then deleted all words from 4 pages on. I have 3 rows so I only needed three pages.

Then I formatted the paragraph to justify.

My transfer paper was 8.5×11 so I had to tape two of them together to get the page to be 14″ long.

3. I printed out each page one at a time. You want to make sure that it is a mirror image that you print! When you go to iron it on it’ll reverse the font to read correctly.

Because I was only using 4 inches of the transfer paper I didn’t want to waste it. I took the bottom half of a paper and taped it to regular paper and have it printed it that way so I didn’t throw out perfectly useable paper.

With all three pages printed in mirror image I was ready to start cutting out the lyrics.

4. I cut the lyrics every 4 inches. Thus, I ended up with nine 4 x 4″ pieces of transfer paper with lyrics on them.

(in theory I cut at the red lines)

5. Then I cut out nine 11×11″ squares of muslin. This was more than I needed but again I’m terrible at centering.

6. I ironed on the lyrics to the middle of each piece of muslin. I had a little trouble with the paper that was taped together at first, but I found just a little more pressure for a few seconds more fixed any problems.

7. After everything was transferred I began attaching the muslin to the canvases. I centered the lyrics and stapled the top and bottom. Then I pulled the fabric tight and stapled all along the back making hospital folds at each corner. I made all my corners fold the same way on every canvas for aesthetics. It doesn’t really matter how they are folded.

8. Then I trimmed off the excess fabric so the blocks would lay nicely against the wall. It’s supposed to be hung spread out but you get the effect with them together. Spreading them out will help make them look even as well. You can see where some lyrics are higher than the other like the bottom right corner and bottom middle. It gives it character 🙂


Lastly, I gave him his gift. Mike loved it! For some reason he couldn’t believe I remembered his favorite part of the song. I’m not that bad of a girlfriend! They came out great and we are looking for the right place to hang them. Right now they are being displayed on his coffee table.
I hope this can add to your house in some way!

Thank you!

L&L

Missy

Office Banner

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This was done pre-blog times, so again no step by step pictures. However, this was very quick and easy and I made it in about 15 minutes!

Materials Needed
Iron on Transfer paper- you can buy this at any craft store, I had some already so it was free for me! When you go to buy this, look for the paper that is made for your fabric. They have light fabric and dark fabric options.

Two patterns of fabric- I used muslin and an extra fat quarter I had laying around

Sewing machine

Dowel rod (I used an unsharpened pencil)

Ribbon

Computer and printer

Iron

And so it begins…
1. Find a quote or picture that you like. I stumbled across mine in a store. It’s by Mother Theresa and I felt it was very appropriate for what was going on around me at the time.
2. Format your quote or picture in a printable form. Play with fonts and sizes until you get something you really like.
3. Print your quote as a mirror image! This is really important or else you’ll iron on a quote that’s backwards. I used best quality to make sure it transferred nicely.
4. Iron image onto the middle fabric (Muslin) Read the directions on your package as each requires different heat. My iron was on cotton, no steam, and I pressed down firmly for about 15-20 seconds. It was a bit long as some residue stayed on my muslin.
5. You can cut your muslin before or after. I’m terrible at centering things so I always try to mistake proof my projects. I cut out my muslin centering the quote. I allowed 1/4″ for the seam on the top and bottom.
6. Next I cut the top and bottom pieces of fabric. I gave an extra 1/4″ for a seam on the bottom and 1 1/4″ on the top. 1/4″ for the seam 1″ for the rod.
7. I pinned the muslin and bottom piece right sides together, lining up the top of the blue and the bottom of the muslin.
8. Sew with 1/4″ seam and unpin.
9. Pin the muslin and top piece right sides together then sew.
10. For the flap for the dowel I folded the top over so the wrong side of the fabric touched. I pinned it and sewed straight across creating a loop a bit smaller than 1/2″.
11. Iron banner pressing the seams in to lay flat.

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12. If you use a dowel rod you have a few options! You can cut the rod to fit inside the banner or you can have it hang outside of the loop. If you leave excess you can buy decorative knobs for the ends if you want to make it fancier. I could only find 2″ dowel rods at home so I used an unsharpened pencil. Insert rod (or pencil) in loop.
13. Feed ribbon through the loop or tie ribbon on ends of rod. I fed mine through so a knot wouldn’t bulge out. Then I tied a bow at the top an adjusted the ribbon so it was even.
14. Hang it up!

I chose to leave the edges unfinished because I liked it but if you want a cleaner look, create a small seam around the whole banner before you fold the top for the loop.

This one was easy, but it really made a difference in my office! Thanks again!

L&L
Missy